Stepping onto the Fairways of Royal Portrush
Arriving at the first tee of Royal Portrush three months after the Open Championship, the sheer scale of this legendary links course leaves an indelible impression. Shaped by relentless coastal weather and renowned architects, Royal Portrush stands as a golfer’s dream—a masterpiece of natural beauty and strategic design.
Without the buzz of TV towers, corporate setups, and crowds, the course reveals its serene side. Scottie Scheffler secured victory here in July, drawing a record 278,000 spectators—the highest attendance for an Open outside St Andrews. This turnout underscores the deep passion for golf among Northern Ireland’s residents.
Groundskeepers have swiftly restored the par-72 layout to pristine condition since equipment crews departed in September. Fairways gleam, rough has regrown, and greens roll true, ready for play.
A Rich Legacy on the Emerald Isle
Founded in 1888 as The County Club by Scotsmen George L. Baillie and Thomas Gilroy, the course began as nine holes. Four-time Open champion Old Tom Morris advised on expanding it to 18. The clubhouse brims with history: silver trophies including the Claret Jug, vintage wooden clubs, and Fred Daly’s Ryder Cup jacket fill display cases.
In 1892, under The Duke of York’s patronage, architect Harry Colt transformed the Dunluce Links into a championship venue. It has tested golf’s elite, including Rory McIlroy, who once held the course record but faced challenges here. McIlroy’s 2019 Open start was rocky—a hooked drive out of bounds led to a quadruple bogey on the first, resulting in a missed cut after an opening 79.
Playing the first hole confirms the difficulty: escaping the left-side rough or bracken demands precision. As experts note, success relies on strategy over power. Fairways are essential; the wet rough clings like glue.
Challenges and Joys of the Dunluce Links
As a mid-handicap golfer, I found Royal Portrush demanding yet exhilarating—one of the most rewarding rounds imaginable. The layout flows dynamically from tee to green, weaving through mounds and embankments with stunning North Atlantic vistas.
The par-four second demands caution around nine strategic bunkers on its 572-yard dogleg left. Deep traps require skillful escapes. The fifth hole stands out as a favorite: ascending to the tee reveals panoramic views of the course and ocean. This 382-yard par four doglegs right toward the coast; the daring ‘Tiger line’ over rough tempts fate but offers a shortcut.
From here, glimpses of Rathmore Golf Club’s Valley Course appear—home to 2010 Open winner Graeme McDowell and 1947 champion Fred Daly. It’s an ideal complement for multi-day trips. McDowell highlights strategic play on his top holes, emphasizing adaptability.
The undulations test shot-making, while North Atlantic winds add unpredictability, especially at Calamity Corner, the infamous 14th. Five bunkers guard the par-three 13th green, demanding pinpoint accuracy. Shane Lowry, the 2019 champion, observes, ‘I forgot how well-bunkered the course is. There’s a lot of options off the tees. You just have to go with what you feel.’
Calamity Corner, the cliffside 14th, intimidates with its 263-yard par three. Cold winds gust across; overcompensating right invites bracken penalties. J.J. Spaun, the 2025 US Open winner, calls it ‘pretty intimidating visually,’ noting, ‘Wind can really make it a tough hole. I think just making four pars on that hole, you’re going to be gaining strokes on the field.’ Scheffler bucked the trend with three birdies here en route to victory.
The par-three sixth challenges with back-shelf pins and deceptive slopes that repel balls toward the fairway. Putting proves crucial; birdies are rare. Links golf’s purity shines through—you against the course and elements—making navigation thrilling, even on tougher days.
The halfway house offers respite with soup, sandwiches, beers, or wines. Post-turn, the 10th dogleg and bunkered 13th continue the test. Lowry holds the post-redesign record of 63 from 2019. The blind tee on the 17th adds intrigue; a well-struck shot rolls down to the green, shared with the 13th.
Accommodations and Clubhouse Delights
The fourth hole, the toughest, features a narrow fairway flanked by four central bunkers, overlooking Dunluce Lodge—a five-star haven opened in 2022 for £16.5 million. Its 35 suites evoke the coastal palette with tartan blues, dark greens, and oak accents, providing cozy refuge after chilly rounds.
Staff assist with gear, and the bar boasts Bushmills whiskies, including a rare £12,000 46-year-old malt. The 28-page wine list and Vault cellar impress. The restaurant sources local ingredients for dishes like Lisdergan beef or Atlantic halibut; seared Thornhill duck stands out. A spa offers wellness treatments, and a Royal Portrush-designed putting green hosted McIlroy’s practice sessions with his daughter.
The clubhouse celebrates members like Darren Clarke; his 2016 Ryder Cup bag displays putters for sale. The pro shop tempts with branded gear. Post-round, hearty butternut soup and club sandwiches, made with local fare, warm the soul. The unpretentious vibe—helpful caddies sharing history and gift bags with tees and Pro V1 balls—elevates the experience.
Embracing Local Culture
Golf weaves into Northern Ireland’s fabric. After play, visit the Harbour Bar, a pilgrimage site adorned with pros’ flags, hats, and bibs. Lowry toasted his 2019 win here with the Claret Jug; his photo, hat, and glove remain fixtures.
Royal Portrush’s return to the Open rota in 2019 after 68 years, following 2013 Irish Open tweaks, promises more spectacles. Redesigned holes enhance its challenge. This seaside gem demands a spot on every golf enthusiast’s itinerary for the 2025 Open and beyond.
