Overlanding from Namibia to Angola was a complete wild card. All we actually knew was that this southern African nation was a Portuguese colony for ~400 years and was embroiled in a decades-long civil struggle till 2002. To plan this Angola journey, we figured we’d get to the border city of Rundu, Namibia, collect some native intel on attending to and across the neighboring city of Calai…however we couldn’t discover anybody who had been! Google Maps made it seem to be you needed to drive eight hours out of the way in which to cross the river, and Reserving.com pulled up zero outcomes for lodges…however, this solely made us extra curious and desperate to discover Southern Angola!
Namibia-Angola Border Crossing at Calai
Crossing the footbridge over the Okavango River, we mentioned goodbye to Namibia and ola to Angola. The immigration officer solely spoke Portuguese, so in our greatest Portuñol pidgin, we defined our four-day Angola journey was for “ferias” (vacation functions) and heard that candy sound of a stamp hitting our passport. We might have been “in” however with no thought what we have been stepping into.
A fleet of moto taxis waved us over, so with no automobiles in sight, Mike and my solely alternative however to every saddle up with a stranger and hope we have been heading to the identical place. Vrrrooom, we zipped by means of the sandy roads and into central Calai–two streets of outlets, an out of doors market, a Portuguese bar…and one guesthouse!
The place to Keep in Calai
We opened the tall gate to the fortified Tchingwali Guesthouse, and we have been happy to discover a tropical backyard, a full restaurant, and nice rooms with AC and en-suite baths for $16. Who knew?! As vegans who don’t communicate Portuguese, it was a bit onerous to determine one of the best plant-based possibility. Maize porridge is the premise of most meals in Southern Africa and takes many names (pap, ugali, funge, and so on) and is usually ready so it’s dense sufficient to choose up and scoop the accompanying veg and meat. We ordered funge, and we loved ours with sides of untamed spinach with peanuts and slow-cooked beans. We washed it down with a pair of Cuca beers, and ordered one other spherical simply because we cherished the native customized of cerveja and a bottle opener delivered by wicker basket.
Authorities Permission to Discover
We knew Calai wasn’t a vacationer vacation spot, however with the famed Okavango River, we figured there can be some water adventures in our future. We requested our visitor home the place we may prepare a ship journey, and so they mentioned, “Nowhere that we all know of, possibly ask by the dock.” They unnoticed the half that the “dock” was truly a naval base, and so they weren’t so pleasant to unannounced guests.
After assembly with a number of officers and receiving a protracted line of questioning (“Are you making an attempt to cross to Namibia? Why do need to canoe if you happen to aren’t fishing? Are you an excellent swimmer? You already know the river is filled with crocodiles, proper?” ), they warmed as much as our thought of a dugout canoe journey with a neighborhood fisherman…and so they even wished a selfie to commemorate our journey!
Dugout Canoeing the Okavango River
Donning the fireplace division’s life vests, we joined Segunda for his first foray into river-guiding. He’d by no means had passengers in his canoe, however he knew the river just like the again of his hand and confirmed us his favourite eddies, islands, and hippo hiding spots. We tipped him handsomely and shared (one of the best!) malasada donuts to rejoice what would possibly simply change into a brand new chapter in his waterman profession. To assist make this occur, we launched him to the Tchingwali Guesthouse staff so they might ship future company on an Okavango canoe expedition with the stunning Segunda!
Street Tripping Southern Angola
Now to rearrange a street journey to discover extra of Angola! There have been solely a handful of non-governmental automobiles on the town, and one of the best truck occurred to be parked at our guesthouse. We went out on a limb and requested the vehicle-owner, Peter, if he’d be prepared to point out us across the Southern Angola countryside. This surprising request was met with an excellent larger supply to hitch him the next day on his 120km journey to Dirico with a cease to satisfy one of many queens of the Cuando-Cubango province! He warned us it was going to be a protracted day and a tough street, however to us it appeared like a implausible alternative. Off we went on a wild trip down a one-lane freeway, constructed by the Portuguese a century in the past and overtaken with deep sand and thick brush. Between partitions of bushes, we’d catch glimpses of the mighty Okavango River, the occasional grouping of mud-thatch huts, and fields of pearl millet for a scenic drive.
Visiting with the Queen of Mutango
To study concerning the native life and agriculture, there was no higher individual to satisfy than Queen Katrina! She graciously confirmed us round her village and farm, and the way to shuck and chew sugarcane just like the boss she is! Our Angola schooling continued within the automobile as I peppered Peter with questions. (I’d communicate to him in Spanish and he’d reply in Portuguese, and amazingly, we understood one another sufficient for some deep conversations). Throughout the Angolan Civil Struggle, his dad was a basic for the UNITA Insurgent Social gathering, which was based mostly on this province of Cuando-Cubango, and most closely focused.
Peter informed us this space was once teeming with wildlife, from elephants to lions to giraffes to leopards, however the combating drove most of them south to the security of Namibia. Regardless that the struggle led to over 20 years in the past, numerous landmines nonetheless litter the Cuando-Cubango, and he lamented that Angola nonetheless hasn’t fairly gotten on its ft. Corruption is rife and infrastructure is severely missing, nevertheless it’s clear you may’t break the spirit of the Angolan folks!
Dirico: The place the Rivers Meet
After a four-hour trip, taking numerous hits from overgrown bushes and yielding to cows, we arrived within the city of Dirico. Atop a hill the place the Cuito River meets the Cubango River, it’s a stunning location and a cheery place. The city sq. is anchored by its namesake signal and backyard with a cute elephant and hippo statue. Adults and children alike have been enjoying soccer, and we may hear a church choir practising.
We popped right into a marketplace for some meals and drinks (the primary store we’d seen all day), and a bunch of teenage ladies swept me up like a long-lost good friend. “Selfie, selfie,” they squealed. What began as a photograph op changed into an impromptu dance session and laughing match.
Southern Angola Journey…SOOO price it!
Earlier than dealing with the darkish and sandy street again to Calai, we took a second to benefit from the sundown on the bridge over the Cuanavale River. Fishermen hugged the railing and, with only a stick and a line, they have been pulling out tiger fish of epic proportions. Youngsters have been cheering with every catch; dinner was served. Peter, Mike, and I cracked our N’gola cervejas, raised our heat beers over the shimmering pink waters, and toasted an unforgettable journey and new friendship.
Angola Journey Tips
- Rundu-Calai Border Crossing: From Rundu, it’s a 15-minute cab trip to this river border put up. You’ll course of your passport on the Namibia aspect, then stroll throughout a floating bridge to complete your paperwork in Calai. No visa or entry payment is required.
- Time Change: Be aware there’s a one-hour time distinction between Angola and Namibia. In Namibia, borders are open 9am-6pm, and in Angola, the hours are 8am-5pm.
- Language: Portuguese is the official language of Angola, with 47 acknowledged native languages. There’s restricted English spoken in Southern Angola, however between that and/or Spanish, folks can usually perceive you if you happen to communicate slowly. Since I solely know a handful of phrases in Portuguese, I spoke Span we want we knewish with a Portuguese inflection, and it labored fairly effectively…particularly when mixed with an offline model of Google Translate’s Portuguese language dictionary! Be sure you obtain earlier than you go!
- Cash: The Angolan Kwanza (Kz) is the nationwide forex and exchanges at 917 Kz to $1 USD. In Calai and Dirico, the Namibian greenback is broadly accepted, so we by no means wanted to alternate cash. Southern Angola is extremely reasonably priced, with our resort working us $15 an evening, a meal $2, and a beer $1.
- Connectivity: WiFi and cell reception are onerous to come back by in Southern Angola. Our T-Cell Crimson Limitless/worldwide plan didn’t work, however in case you have a Namibian SIM card, it ought to decide up sign from Calai. Greatest to obtain maps, forex conversions, and the Portuguese dictionary earlier than you go.
- Transportation: Most individuals who come to Southern Angola from Namibia arrive by 4×4 overland automobiles for tenting adventures. This might undoubtedly be enjoyable and a better alternative, however we’re completely happy to report {that a} journey to Calai could be completed on foot, by moto-taxi, and by making associates with automobiles, lol.
We launched into this Angola journey with zero expectation (and just a little little bit of jitters) and have been met with the pure kindness and unbridled journey…precisely what we dream of in journey! We hope you too, can take the street much less traveled to Southern Angola.
